#5 – Going Through Changes
Rebrands, new ingredients to know, and the Drunk Elephant in the room.
Feature story in this week’s HIGHLIGHTER: an audit on how Drunk Elephant has “lost its luster” since Shiseido’s acquisition in 2019. Scroll to check out THE NEW THING, a new column that will teach you something you haven’t heard of yet, but will hear a lot about in the future. And you’ll be able to say you know!
GOOD TO KNOW
DRUNK ELEPHANT’S SOBERING SHISEIDO YEARS (Glossy)
A study examines how Drunk Elephant has lost its top spot in clean skincare since its Shiseido acquisition in 2019. It’s paywalled on Glossy, but I hooked you up. Highlights:
When acquired, Drunk Elephant was a bombshell exclusive at Sephora, representing half of Sephora’s top 10 skincare bestselling products.
SHI banked on big growth in 2020-21, expanding to new regions and Ulta.
Then, slump. 10% loss in 1H2022. SHI response: up skincare innovation and brand recognition in digital. But more decline disappointed in Q3 2022.
Why? Wholesale purchases down. Clean beauty market growth post-2019. General slump in mid-level brand sales (re: inflation). Weak sales in China+Japan.
Digital investment in brand recognition helped Q4 2022–Q1 2023. A couple of viral sellouts on TikTok have increased awareness. Things are looking up.
Shiseido leaders are optimistic about 2023.
JUST DROPPED
LUMIN – REBRAND
The men’s skincare brand has refreshed its image from grey and dull (warning: opinion) to clean and lively — read: a little more GQ-bro and a little less barsoap-bro. Snakes are involved. Jumping and flipping is involved. New CEO who inspired the relaunch calls it an “elegantly irreverent…cocktail of science, styling and stunts.” Ok !
TIFFANY & CO. – LOCK BRACELET COLLECTION IN AR (Adweek)
The luxury jeweler launched a new collection with an augmented reality billboard in Milan by artist Pietro Terzini. Seen through a Snapchat Lens (aka AR filter), the installation shows a Tiffany box open, bracelets lock together, spin a few times, then back into the closing box.
“THE NEW THING”
SKINCARE TECHNOLOGY
Ectoin – topical – “the new niacinamide.” A moisture-binding multitasker. Superstar quality: protects skin from chemical/physical stress. Smooths, reduces inflammation and water loss, improves elasticity, and works for lines/wrinkles.
Profhilo – injectable – “may become as big as Botox.” Not yet FDA-approved, but legal in Europe. Snuck in by some NY and LA derms. Stimulates new collagen and elastin cells for dewy, glass-like, firmer skin. Though studies are company-funded and not entirely conclusive.
LEMON8
A new app by ByteDance (of TikTok fame) described as a mix between IG and Pinterest. Photo collaging, skill teaching, etc. As of 4/13, the app sits at #1 on the App Store under Lifestyle, and #37 overall – all thanks to ByteDance recruiting TikTok stars to give it a shot.
ON TREND
🧛 VAMPIRE SKIN 🧛
Skin of a killer. Glittery and sharply contoured.
🧿 HOT GLUE GRAPHIC EYELINER 🧿
Draw shapes, squiggles, whatever in hot glue on a surface, let it dry, peel it off and frame your eyes. Dab makeup directly onto dried glue. A puffy sticker effect.
TO DO IN NEW YORK
Georgia O’Keeffe: To See Takes Time (MoMA)
120 drawings and key paintings by the “mother of American Modernism” that exhibit the lesser-known sides of O’Keeffe’s practice. Charcoal, pencil, watercolor, and pastel works are curated to tell a new story about the artist’s lens. On view til August 12.
Black Power to Black People: Branding the Black Panther Party (Poster House)
An exhibition of the vibrant graphics and bold slogans emblematic of the Black Panther Party’s highly visual messaging strategy. See heroic portraits of party members, The Black Panther newspaper editions, and political campaign posters that defined the Party’s mission to control its own narrative. On view til September 10.
GOOD GENES
When the weather hits 80° once, it becomes legally summer until it goes back to down to 32°. Here’s some inspiration from Shiseido 1966.
